Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
